Managing Salt addition in Water tanks to help the alkalising ionizing process

Tech Tip #1:

Managing Salt addition in Water tanks to help the alkalising ionizing process

Water tanks as a supply for a water ioniser do work OK. However they have far less mineral content in the water (with the exception of concrete tanks, which leach calcium for many years).

Less mineral content means less ‘fuel’ for ionizing, as the separation process’ efficiency relies upon the amount of minerals in the water. Less minerals translates into the need for a higher pH setting on the ioniser to get the effect you might get from more mineralised town water. Generally, we see water from a tank needing 2 higher pH settings on the ioniser to achieve results similar to town water.

Flow rate

Flow rate reduction slows down the passage of water through the ionizing chamber, giving it more time to ionize. So a higher pH setting combined with a slower flow rate, often bumps the output pH.

We have suggested to many users that they add Celtic Sea Salt to the tank at a rate of a tablespoon per 1000 litres. The problem arises, however, that as you use the water in the tank, you need to add more salt, but can’t add it at the same rate for the total volume of water, because there is already some salt in the water.

12000 L tank of Water + Salt = 12000 litres of water good for ionising.

12000L – a months’ usage + new rainfall water = uncertain salt concentration.

Do you see the problem?

Thea and Jim, one of our clients, have taken the matter into their own hands.

Jim has installed a small header tank. They used a 15L crock pot and fitted a socket to its base. Jim mounted it in an adjacent room about 2m above the ioniser and plumbed it directly to the ioniser. A ball valve was installed to keep the level in the crock pot at the correct level.

Now Thea just adds 2 pinches of celtic sea salt to the crock pot, and as a result, get up to pH 10.

The great benefit is also that they have saved heaps on salt!

Different tank types

I mentioned earlier that this situation varies with type of tank.

Generally speaking, a concrete tank will add calcium to the water for up to 20 years. A tin tank is relatively neutral but the new plastic tanks – well, let’s just say I wouldn’t drink out of them. I have seen pH fall to as low as 4 in water from plastic or fibre glass tanks!